Anyone...?

[Admin]

Anyone here surf? Explain to me why it is so much like a religion. I would consider myself a waterman, and I would love to get into surfing, but how? Is it even worth the hassle?

What would you recommend and why?

[mynewunit]

Sorry I can't help. The only surfing I did was powered by wind. I have limited access to salt water. I think that surfing is an exercise in patience and execution. You wait for the right wave then you have to get up and the ride depends on you and the wave. Honest, I prefer surfers to golfers. My religious activity involves counting to ten and making 12" paper circles holier.

[fdmedic]

You could say some people get into the sprituality of surfing and maybe consider time spent in the water as somehow comparable to time spent in church.
I don't know..... I'm not that spritual
I started surfing at age 8, 34 years ago. Form day one it was someplace between an ossession and an addiction.
Now days it is more of a heathy and fun outlet from the everyday pressures of "adult" life. And if the waves suck there is always Jiu Jitsu.
So should you start surfing?
Sure, why not?
Just expect it to be harder than you think and don't overestimate your limits.

[digitaltemujin]

I think, perhaps because its so simple yet so difficult. It's a thrill and a danger and you are humbled by the enormous power of the water and of nature.
I've only done it during trips to an ocean beach. I enjoy it but it's not a religion for me.

[mynewunit]

I think it is one of those things where you don't know what is skill, what is nature and what is luck. The more you do it, the more it becomes skill, and you anticipate the nature, and create your luck. Religion would be a good term for it. Successes mean nothing to anyone who isn't you.

[getsome]

From Phoenix, I am an easy weekend drive from socal. What would be the best locale to hit up for a good lesson and to learn to surf?

[jonhall]

San Onofre. Old Mans is a place where you will have good waves most of the time and avoid the "Local" surfer. Not sure about lessons but maybe in South-Bay. Places like some of the more famous spots have too many people and the "Locals" hate it. San Onofre was a safe place from Locals when I was in California before moving to Arizona. Not sure now. Any feed back from anyone still left in Cal?

[mynewunit]

I just had my first surf lesson. It was in Puerto Rico. A beach with short waves with long runs. It took a longer board than I probably would have expected. The smallest one I had any success with was an 11 footer. Most of the time I was on a 12, 14 or 16.

Why is it so interesting? Because it feels like it has an exponential progression. First, can you catch a wave. Then can you stand up. Then can you stay up. Then can you turn. Then do you know where to turn. Can you catch a bigger wave? Is it you or the wave that makes the better ride? Can you ride in the ideal position on the board? On the wave? Can you ride in the non ideal position on the board? On the wave?
My first time riding was a workout. Between getting out into the surf. Popping up and crouching all the way in, I was beat every ride.
You can see once you understand how to ride, many of these tasks become effortless.
Like BJJ, the better you are the less work it takes.

[jonhall]

It's hard to say why this is such a quasi religious experience, but I started surfing about 1968 when I was in the 8th grade but was body surfing many years before that. There were so many days where we we paddling out into the morning glass of 3' waves or the very rare afternoon glass when you are getting ready to go home and the sun comes out "most California surfing is morning fog or gloomy" and you look out and the wind stopped and you have the most glassy waves at 12:00 when normally sloppy chop. No wet suit and small wave perfection for the one of the best session ever. Except for the tit rash suffered because you haven't been on a board without a wet suit. Or maybe a very cold December morning with maybe 1' very glassy waves on a point break where you catch 100+ yard waves on a your "Hobie" Corkie Carol Mini Model long board that nobody thought was worth anything. That's right. Free! Back then, everyone made fun of me riding these old long boards. Short boards were the new thing. The problem is, you can't ride a 1' wave 100 yards on a 5'-4" board. Or catch most waves in Southern California most of the time. I would knee paddle into a wave, stand up and watch all these kids kicking and paddling without catching the wave. Then try cutting me off on my 9'2" surfboard made in 1965? That's called "ding repair". Now all of a sudden, long boards rule. I hope all the kids that made fun of me then are sorry now as they ride their long boards.

[mynewunit]

Just had my first non-lesson surfing session. I can see how it is addictive. It builds a lot of skills that are helpful. In the Riding Giants documentary, they talk about surf bums as more surfing monks. I think it is an apt analogy. It takes some skill and observation to find where the waves are going to break, where the breakers actually travel, and which wave will be a good one to catch. Once you launch, it is a challenge of getting to the right point of the board to plane. Then getting up is a balance and movement challenge. If you make it far enough that you are standing on a board on a wave, then you get to begin to have fun. I still have not figured out the complete dynamics of turning the board. My efforts make minor changes in path. Generically not bad for one month. We will see if I get another opportunity.